We launched two days after returning to Rush on September 10^th and headed through the Levkas Canal to Pogonia. The Levkas Canal floating swing bridge had failed (or failed to undertake) it’s annual safety inspection so, in a classically Greek solution, it was temporarily replaced by a chartered ferry.  The ferry was not used conventionally however…. It was selected for its exact length to wedge across the canal, enabling road traffic to drive on one end and off the other.

 

Pogonia was a convenient spot (avoiding the long que for the ferry-bridge) to pick up Sarah and Stacey, who flew in the following day. They are not just mates, they’re “pillars’ of the sailing community. Sarah was CEO of the RYA and Stacey sits on the Council of World Sailing, our sport’s international governing body. Lifejackets on! They cruise their Ovni around northern Europe and jump aboard race boats for events like the Fastnet and Newport-Bermuda.  

 

Sarah and Stacey’s enthusiasm was infectious – the day before flying out Sarah said “I’m so excited I can hardly breathe”. With perfect weather we packed in some good sailing, visits to new and familiar places, lots of swimming and two nights of rendezvous with Lars and Anna on Odin of Sweden, plus Glenn and Nina on their yacht Ameline Eleonore who, like us, were part of the Odin crew at the fabulous Baltic Yachts regatta in Sardinia two years ago.

 

The Swedes led us to Kastos, their favourite little Ionian Island – local population: 37. After eating seared tuna in the harbourside taverna they took us to Alex and Maria’s bar, Dimello, located above their home. Ten years ago Alex and Maria decided to escape Athens corporate jobs and change their lives. After they moved to Kastos, our Swedes were among Dimello’s first customers and have visited at every opportunity since. They were welcomed like old friends and that quickly extended to us. Alex loves playing timeless, great music in the bar, skilfully attuned to their current customers. “This is for you, Amanda”. Before we knew it, it was past 01.30 and we’d probably drunk more that evening than over the past year. But you can’t manufacture these occasions with wonderful friends in beautiful places – just embrace them when they come along.       

 

After nine fun days we blatted south to Zakinthos with 20+ knot gusts allowing Sarah and Stacey to compete for the highest speed of the trip, followed by a fabulous supper ashore. The taverna owner waited patiently for us to choose from his menu, then insisted we have this not that. S&S flew home the following day.

 

It was change-over day on Rush, with our Contessa and Scow owning village mate Red arriving on the plane which took Sarah and Stacey home. Would a classic craft enthusiast like Red get Rush?! Red only had a few days on board and, unfortunately, this time the wind didn’t play ball. More time under power than sail… but we managed to sail at times, anchored in a couple of beautiful bays including yet another new favourite (is that possible?) near the north end of Kastos, before dropping Red into the car/care of Nikos at Palairos. 

We’ve had so many visits over the season in the Ionian that we’ve adopted Nikos, a super-nice taxi driver initially found by Claire, to provide Rush’s concierge service. Airport runs – day trips – Nikos is our man! 

 

Having enjoyed glorious sunshine and perfect temperatures, in late September the summer suddenly departed with Red. Autumn set in earlier than normal and good days were interspersed between stormy spells. There was an upside.

The Ambracian Gulf is frequently the most sheltered spot in Ionian bad weather, extending twenty miles inland from Preveza. It encompasses an area larger than the Solent and, because the water is a greeny colour (again, not unlike the Solent) it is almost completely off the popular, crystal blue bay, Ionian cruising route. In fact, it’s like leaving high-season hectic Solent waters and arriving in Scotland – a day sail later!

We’d been part way up the Gulf previously but this time, seeking the best shelter, we explored further. We found more wildlife, including dolphins and flamingos, than anywhere else in the Ionian. 

At the top of the gulf there’s the tiny harbour of Kopraina – built with EU funding but not adopted and operated, so berthing on the quay (if one of the four spots happens to be free) is free. There’s a taverna, a closed museum and absolutely nothing else except stunning, dramatic scenery. We grabbed a lucky spot and holed up for five days to chill out while the weather went through. 

 

 

This led us towards the arrival of our next visitors, longstanding mates, RS and various other craft sailors, Giles and Heather, from Lymington. They’re not only winning sailors, they also know how to enjoy the fine things in life – and Giles loves nothing more than a good castle. Another pick-up from an anchorage off Pogonia via Nikos – a fortunate good weather week – a variety of sailing around the islands squeezed between breakfasts, coffees, dinners and ice creams ashore – an over-long walk and, in the nick of time, castles near Levkada and Preveza that made Giles’ trip. It was all fabulous. It’s great the way everyone brings a different character to their time aboard. 

 

As forecast, the day that Giles and Heather departed the weather deteriorated again. Rush enjoyed a natural wash while we remained moored for a few days in the prime spot on Lefkada town quay – recently refurbished with decorative stone paving, water fountains, planting and lighting – with Rush, temporarily, the centrepiece. 

 

Then, before heading to Preveza to start the winterising process, we grabbed a dry day with decent breeze and sailed upwind up to Paxos, realised there would be no wind the next day, so gybed and sailed downwind back to Preveza. Sixty miles sailed to anchor about six miles from where we started. But the best sail of the trip. There have been lots of upsides, but we haven’t given Rush many opportunities to stretch her legs this year. 

Unsettled weather gave us several days, anchored in the Ambracian Gulf off Koronisia, Vonitsa and Preveza, to remove sails and lines, service the engines, “pickle” the watermaker and generally winterise Rush ahead of lifting out at Cleopatra Boatyard on October 25^th. 

Before heading home we had a couple of lovely suppers with Jules and Mike who we first met in June in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. It has been their first season cruising on their catamaran Shway Shway – a big change after leaving city life in Dubai behind them. Although British, they have the big advantage of an Irish grandparent and a passport that relieves them of Schengen time restrictions.     

 

Season Summary

The last few years saw us place a major focus on Rush – her build, commissioning, delivery to Europe and snagging. This season, while we’ve done less passage making than our norm and it would be easy to feel unfulfilled in that sense, we wanted to focus on people and places while enjoying Rush – becoming almost ridiculously comfortable living aboard and sailing her in the process.

With the season now over, we can report that nothing failed on Rush this year and with many small tweaks resulting from the multitude of hoists, drops and manoeuvres that come with sailing locally around islands, she feels well sorted.

It has sometimes felt hard leaving home and family and friends going through difficult times, even if only for a few weeks. We’ve missed a few significant moments. 

But, overall, we’ve had a great season. Rush is simply amazing. Nine sets of visitors joined us on board and created links between our home and cruising lives. We’re incredibly fortunate to have both and love them as we do.